Country grand and pricey, Thomas Henkelmann provides what is arguably the finest dining
experience between Manhattan and Boston. Prior to it being bought in early 1998 by Henkelmann,
who had been at the highly acclaimed La Panatiere in nearby Rye, New York for five years, The
Grange at the Homestead had long been a place where locals came to celebrate rather than feast,
as it was far from being a "food destination." Today, that's all changed, though most of the
actual bricks and mortar of the restaurant remain the same, save for the creation of a romantic,
intimate bar/lounge. The ambience is elegance taken to Martha Stewart-like extremes, with
half-timbered ceilings, a fire in the fireplace, copper vats filled with apples and spectacular
floral arrangements. The level of the always attentive, yet unobtrusive service, including
that of André Compeyre, the skilled sommelier who oversees a well-stocked, be it expensive
cellar of primarily fine French vintages, somewhat heavy with Bordeaux. However, the piece de
resistance is the contemporary fare prepared by German-born, Swiss and French trained
chef/owner, Henkelmann. His potato and leek soup is nothing short of sensational. Ditto for
his seared foie gras with a ravioli of assorted mushrooms. His pairing of meat and fowl with
seafood are mouth-watering, such as his signature medallion of veal with a Maine lobster
risotto, port wine and Parmesan chips. Yet, as is the case with Alain Ducasse, the legendary
French chef, simplicity is Henkelmann's forte, like a Dover sole with its ever-so-light flavors.
Instead of the olive oil favored by Ducasse, Henkelmann selectively employs fresh herbs to
enhance his unique flavoring. In a word, don't miss this superb newcomer to the ranks of such
other countrified eateries as Washington, DC's Inn at Little Washington, Princeton, New Jersey's
Ryland Inn, Napa Valley's French Laundry and Charleston, South Carolina's Woodlands Inn. It's
just that good!
Location:
420 Field Point Rd.
Homestead Inn
Greenwich, CT 06830
203-869-7500
